Karl Gerstenberger Profile
We’d like to introduce you to Eastside’s Meat & Seafood Manager, Karl Gerstenberger. Karl comes to us with a multitude of food experience via a winding and inspiring past in co-ops and the California slow-food movement. The grandson of an early cooperative movement grocer, his appreciation and commitment to food done right (and done well!) is a guiding principle in his professional life.
With much of his working life spent in kitchens both near and far, he’s honed a passion for learning that influences his whole approach to life. If you’ve ever caught him behind his service case, you know that he lives to bend an ear too. He and his entire team exude a friendly generosity of advice and inspiration to any customer willing to engage.
For this season’s Carrot, we asked Karl to fire up one of his personal grills and cook up some of his favorite offerings from his department. We had a blast grilling with him while he discussed what being a “whole animal shop” entails. Needless to say, we have a newly enhanced appreciation for whole animal butchery and the excitement of cooking with fire.
As Karl puts it, “A mixed grill is perhaps the best way to appreciate the value of the whole animal, the art of cooking, and the craft of meat cutting. We couldn’t agree more with this trifecta philosophy. Every cut has it’s distinctive culinary attributes depending on the function of the muscle so how you cook it is not a one-size-fits-all approach. Our mixed grill was comprised of three lamb cuts focused on different muscles.
Locomotion (Leg & Shoulder)
Muscles that work in mechanical opposition of one another. How we cut these is defined by grain and direction, yielding very flavorful cuts.
Holding (Rib Loin & Short Loin)
These are large muscle groups with very little connective tissue. These are the tenderest of cuts.
Support (Belly and “Hanging” meats)
Care is the operative word here. With careful cutting, considered recipe selection and attention to cooking (techniques) you’re on your way. The results? Amazing.
The Art of Fire: You’ll notice we used lump charcoal for this article’s fuel source of choice (as opposed to briquettes). There’s no right or wrong when you’re grilling outdoors but whatever your heat source it’s important to keep the old adage “the higher the heat, the closer you stay” top of mind. Cooking with high heat increases your ability to add texture (re: crust) but puts timing firmly in the driver’s seat. Keep in mind that doneness is subjective and is comprised of both personal preference and food safety.
Eastside Made: Don’t forget! Eastside’s handmade sausages are raw and need to be cooked with a little more attention than a fully cooked or smoked sausage. Finished cooking temp for lamb, pork, and goat is 140 degrees. For poultry varieties finished temp is 165 degrees.
What does it mean to be “house made” in 2022? In the case of our in-house sausage making, it means that our Meat and Seafood department’s talented staff is all-in on the entire process from sourcing, recipe development, and execution. The practiced hands at Eastside especially responsible for our delightful sausage selection are Dom and Damen. If you happen to catch either at our service case sometime, ask them to recommend one of their creations based on your protein preferences. In the meantime, here’s the big 3 from our lineup:
Bahn Mi
Sambal, Sriracha, Cilantro and Green Onion marinated with delicious heritage pork for a truly unique flavor profile.
Merguez
Just enough heat to carry a whole dish in a pleasantly “lamby” direction (yes, you just read “lamby”). Works great with a mixed grill and is exceptional with rice or potatoes.
Fair State Lager Brat
With a hint of subtle malt character from Fair State’s Vienna Lager, these are a versatile sausage that works will with a multitude of your fave condiments and toppings.
