AN ‘A’ FOR EFFORT

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This two-day, three-recipe Jamaican jerk chicken suite of dishes is a lift, but the result is worth the exertion.

BY JAMES NORTON

James Norton / Heavy Table

If you look around the Internet-assisted wasteland of modern recipes, most if not nearly all put an emphasis on saving you time and money. There’s nothing really wrong with this, particularly when the trade is a smart one and clearly explained. But most quick versions of classic dishes partially or completely forfeit what makes those dishes great in the first place.

I order jerk chicken fairly frequently, and it usually hovers between “meh” and “pretty good.” To this date, I haven’t had a version that reaches the heights of the (admittedly tiring!) method I use at home, although a couple of Jamaican-owned places have come close. [1]

This recipe is a modification of the excellent Serious Eats method for Jerk Chicken. If a typical recipe is 50% of the effort required to max this recipe out, and Serious Eats is 100%, this version represents about 96% - all the shortcuts come during the final cooking process, which I’ve simplified after learning (the hard way) that the actual grill step of this marathon process is pretty tolerant of changes, irregularities and general horsing around.

For me, the hard stuff that matters is: the overnight marinade and soaking of the bay leaves and allspice. Making the side dishes, the coconut rice and banana ketchup. And cooking this on a real charcoal grill so you can tap into the power of aromatic smoke. All of the whole ingredients and fragrant grilling elevates this recipe into something absolutely sensational and singular. The smoke performs alchemy on the meat. I constantly flip-flop on what I’d like for my last meal, but this is absolutely up there in the top three contenders.

The recipe calls for a whole spatchcocked chicken, but you can also use a chicken that’s been broken down - I really, really like Kadejan, which I picked up this week at Eastside Coop.

James Norton / Heavy Table

You’ll go crazy burning Lunds-priced bay leaves and allspice for this method, so hit an Asian and/or Indian and/or Mexican grocery store to pick up your spices in incredibly affordable bulk. I like Ha Tien in St. Paul, Fresh India (Woodbury), and La Alborada on East Lake Street in Minneapolis.

The accompanying banana ketchup and coconut rice and beans are, of course, recommended and optional, but I think you’ll really appreciate what they do to transform this singular entree into a full meal that is maybe unmatched in terms of leftovers. The banana ketchup brings a complex bright sweetness to the dish, and the rice and beans are just creamy, herbal comfort.

JERK CHICKEN
6 habanero peppers (I've used jalapeños in a pinch, and they'll do)
6 scallions, roughly chopped
1 (2-inch) knob fresh ginger, roughly chopped
6 garlic cloves
2 tablespoons freshly picked thyme leaves
1 tablespoon ground allspice
1 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
2 tablespoons dark brown sugar
1/2 cup soy sauce
2 tablespoons zest and 1/4 cup juice from about 4 limes
1/4 cup olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 large whole chicken, back removed, split in half along breastbone (or equivalent amount of chicken parts - thighs, breasts, wings - about 4-5 pounds total) [2]
1/4 cup whole allspice berries
5-6 dozen dried bay leaves (about 2 loosely packed cups)

Combine peppers, scallions, ginger, garlic, thyme, allspice, nutmeg, brown sugar, soy sauce, lime zest and juice, olive oil, 2 teaspoons black pepper, and 1 tablespoon kosher salt in the work bowl of a food processor or the jar of a blender. Blend until a rough purée is formed, about 1 minute.

Place chicken in a large bowl or baking dish. Pour marinade over chicken and turn until thoroughly coated. Divide chicken and marinade between two gallon-sized zipper-lock bags, or place in a large baking dish and cover tightly with plastic wrap. Place whole allspice berries and bay leaves in a gallon-sized zipper-lock bag and fill with water. Refrigerate chicken and bay leaves at least 10 hours and up to 1 day.

When ready to cook, remove chicken from bags, allow excess marinade to drip off, and transfer to a large plate. Light a chimney full of charcoal, and pile it against one side of your grill to make a hot side.

Set cooking grate in place, cover gill and allow to preheat for 5 minutes. Clean and oil the grilling grate. Set bottom and lid vents to half open.

Drain bay leaves and allspice berries in a fine mesh strainer. Spread about half the bay leaves on the cool side of the grill. Lay chicken on the bay leaves skin side up with legs pointed toward hot part of the grill.

Spread another small handful of bay leaves on the hot side of the grill and cover with vent above chicken. Cook for 15 minutes.

Open lid and turn your chicken over, moving it around for even cooking. Place remaining bay leaves and allspice berries on hot side of grill directly above the coals, letting plenty of leaves and berries fall directly onto the coals. Cook for another 10 minutes with lid on as before.

Open lid and put your chicken directly over the hottest part of the coals to slightly char exterior. Cook 3-5 minutes, until done (coolest part of breast at 150°F).

James Norton / Heavy Table

BANANA GUAVA KETCHUP
1 yellow onion, diced
2 tbsp vegetable oil
5 ripe bananas (anywhere from totally yellow to spotted brown) (about 2 pounds), peeled and broken into pieces
4 oz (1/2 cup) guava or quince paste combined with 1 cup orange juice or 1 12-ounce can guava nectar - you may also substitute 8 oz (1 cup) of guava jelly combined with 1/2 cup of orange juice
2 tbsp brown sugar
2-1/2 tbsp raisins
1 tbsp curry powder
1/2 cup fresh orange juice
2 tbsp white vinegar
4 tbsp lime juice (about 2 limes)
Salt and freshly cracked black pepper to taste

In a heavy-bottomed pan over medium heat sauté the onion in vegetable oil until transparent, about 5 to 7 minutes.

Add the banana pieces to the pan and cook over moderate heat for about 5 minutes, stirring constantly to avoid sticking.

Add the guava paste mixture, brown sugar, raisins, curry powder, orange juice, and 1 tbsp vinegar. Bring to a boil and simmer about 15 minutes. The mixture should have the consistency of apple-sauce when hot, but will firm up as it cools.

Remove from the heat and stir in the remaining tbsp of vinegar, the lime juice, and salt and pepper to taste. You may serve this hot or at room temperature. It will keep, covered and refrigerated, up to 6 weeks.

COCONUT RICE AND BEANS
8 ounces red kidney beans
4 cups water
2 cups chicken stock
2 cups (1 can) coconut cream
1 Tablespoon fresh thyme leaves
1⁄2 teaspoon ground allspice
2 scallions, finely chopped
1 cup white onion, chopped
4 minced garlic cloves
2 teaspoon black pepper
3 teaspoons kosher salt
1 Tbsp brown sugar
2 1⁄4 cups uncooked long grain rice

Rinse and sort beans and place in a stockpot.

Cover with several inches of water and soak overnight,-or- bring to a boil, boil gently for 3 minutes, then remove from heat, cover, and allow to sit undisturbed for 1 hour.

Drain and rinse beans.

Bring to a boil with chicken stock, water, and coconut cream.
Cover, reduce heat, and simmer for 1 1/2-2 hours or until beans are tender and creamy.

Add the thyme, allspice, scallion, onion, garlic, brown sugar, uncooked rice, cayenne or hot pepper (if using) and salt and pepper.

Check the level of liquid over the rice and make sure there is at least one inch of liquid (if not, you may add water or broth to cover).

Bring to a boil, reduce heat, cover and simmer for 20-30 minutes or until rice is tender.
Serve hot as a side dish, with Jamaican hot sauce as a condiment, if desired.

Editor's Note: I've upped the amount of coconut cream over the years, with no regrets - it makes a really delicious finished product. Coconut Rice and Beans recipes also sometimes call for a habanero or Scotch bonnet pepper, and I've tried that and decided against it; add it back if you'd like (with the scallions) but I find the chicken provides plenty of heat on the plate already.

FOOTNOTES

James Norton / Heavy Table / File

[1] EDITOR'S NOTE: The Jerk King at Mall of America (above) does surprisingly well in terms of jerk chicken, and their oxtail is pretty good, too. The Jamaican guy in line ahead of me was stoked to pitch me on how much he liked Jerk King, which is also never a bad sign.

[2] EDITOR'S NOTE: You can actually make this recipe with double the chicken - the marinade and called for amount of bay leaves and allspice will still get the job done, there's plenty of both. The challenge, as I found out, is that your grill gets very crowded, and it takes a lot of monitoring and fussing to make sure everything is evenly cooked and not (too) charred. You could of course grill it in two flights if it's a beautiful day and you don't mind standing around outside inhaling the world's most delicious smoke.