Pure Sun, on a Plate
A trio of versatile tomato recipes that capture the height of summer
BY JAMES NORTON
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There may be no better symbol of High Summer - midsummer, the hot stuff, the long days, the oppressive nights, the high water mark for the garden, travel, and socializing - than the tomato. When local tomatoes begin to appear in the markets (and then in the gardens), things have gotten serious. It's an opportunity to take a big, juicy, lycopene-rich bite out of life.
Becca Dilley / Heavy Table
So in that spirit, we're pleased to present you with three tomato-forward recipes for summer: one quick enough to whip up on a distracted weeknight, one only slightly more involved that makes ideal cool lunches and leftovers, and one that's a production but makes a mess of hearty, casual, satisfying meals with a tomato twang to them.
If you're interested in turning your tomatoes into sauce ... like, yesterday, for all intents and purposes - this Quick Bold Tomato Sauce is a good road to travel. From start to finish, you can have it on the table in about 20 minutes, including the time it takes to get your pasta boiled and plated.
The original Silver Spoon version of this recipe (below left) called for blanching and peeling the tomatoes, and adding (and then removing before serving) the garlic and parsley sprigs whole. It also didn't call for anchovy paste.
This version (below right) isn't quite as light on its feet, but it packs a bigger, earthier, more satisfying punch. Try the original variation if you're looking for something that's downright ethereal on your pasta.
Becca Dilley / Heavy Table
QUICK BOLD TOMATO SAUCE
Makes enough for two
-4 Tbsp. olive oil
-2 cloves garlic, minced
-2 sprigs parsley, minced
-16 oz. of fresh tomatoes, diced
-1 Tbsp. anchovy paste (or minced conservas such as anchovies or sardines)
-Salt
-Serve atop hot pasta
Start your water boiling for your pasta; make about two servings' worth, timed to finish with the sauce. (The sauce can, of course, hold at a low heat.)
Add olive oil to saute pan on medium heat. Add your minced garlic for about 30 seconds, then the tomatoes, parsley, anchovy paste, and a pinch of salt. Cook for about 7 minutes, and taste for salt. Pour onto hot drained pasta.
Becca Dilley / Heavy Table
One of my favorite summer meals is a Cordoban take on gazpacho. Olive oil and bread bulk up this otherwise minimalist cold tomato soup, and a topping consisting of sliced hardboiled eggs and diced jamon serrano lends it enough presence to serve as a perfect lunch on a hot afternoon.
The "force the soup through a sieve" part of this recipe is a bear, but the resulting soup is considerably more refined and delicious.
SALMOREJO
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-1 (4-inch-long) piece baguette, crust discarded
-2 garlic cloves
-1 teaspoon salt
-24 whole blanched almonds or 1/4 cup almond flour
-1 cup mild extra-virgin olive oil
-2 lb ripe tomatoes, cored and quartered
-2 tablespoons Sherry vinegar (preferably "reserva"), or to taste
-2 hard-boiled eggs, finely chopped
-1/4 lb serrano ham or prosciutto, sliced 1/8 inch thick, then cut into julienne strips
Soak bread in 1/2 cup water 1 minute, then squeeze dry, discarding soaking water.
Mash garlic to a paste with salt using a mortar and pestle (or mince and mash with a large knife). Blend garlic paste, bread, and almonds in a food processor until nuts are very finely chopped or ingredients are all blended. Add oil in a slow stream with motor running, blending until thick and smooth. Add tomatoes and 2 tablespoons Sherry vinegar and blend until as smooth as possible, about 1 minute. Force soup through a sieve into a bowl, pressing firmly on solids. Keep going, you can get more liquid than that. Persevere! Keep going! Discard solids.
Transfer to a glass container and chill, covered, until cold, about 3 hours. Season with salt and vinegar, then serve in small bowls, topped with egg and ham.
Becca Dilley / Heavy Table
The inspiration for this timbale (which, as near as we can tell, is Italian for "hotdish") comes from The Silver Spoon, but this version is thoroughly adapted, with ingredients, timing, and amounts adjusted based on my cook-through.
This is a cheesy, robust, satisfying dish, and while the tomatoes play the starring role, there are plenty of speaking parts to go around.
If you're cooking for a crowd, this would be easy to double (mushrooms typically come in 8 oz. packages, and it would get you up to one whole mozarella cheese).
NAPOLETANA TIMBALE
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-4 oz. Crimini or button mushrooms, cleaned, trimmed and diced
-1/4 Cup butter plus extra for greasing pan
-1 garlic clove, chopped
-1/2 onion, chopped
-8 oz. chicken thigh, boned, skinned and diced
-4 oz. Italian sausage, crumbled
-18 oz. tomatoes, diced
-1 Cup bread crumbs
-2 cups cavatappi or macaroni (dry; should make about 3 cups cooked)
-1/2 mozzarella cheese (about 4 oz.), diced
-2/3 Cups Parmesan cheese, grated
salt
Melt butter in saucepan over low heat. Add the garlic and onions and cook stirring occasionally for about 10 minutes.
Becca Dilley / Heavy Table
Add the chicken, sausage, and mushrooms, and season generously with salt. Cook for about five minutes over medium heat.
Add the tomatoes, cover, and cook for 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, heat your oven to 350 F, grease a high-sided cake pan with butter, sprinkle with breadcrumbs, and turn to coat. Tip out and reserve the excess.
Cook the pasta until al dente, then drain and tip into a bowl. Add the meat sauce and let cool. When cold, stir in the mozzarella and Parmesan.
Add your mixture (meat sauce, pasta, and cheeses) to your greased and breadcrumb-lined pan. Smooth the surface, and sprinkle with the reserved breadcrumbs.
Bake for 30-40 minutes until golden brown.